Nupo | Calgary’s Best Restaurants 2025

At Nupo, the à la carte menu is executed with the meticulous precision and detail that’s characteristic of world-class establishments.

Barbecued pink oyster mushrooms with a miso and white bean hummus.
Barbecued pink oyster mushrooms with a miso and white bean hummus. Photo by Jared Sych.

Who’s Behind It
Chef-Owner Darren MacLean

The Dish to Eat
The Omakase Sushi Experience

For chef Darren MacLean, Nupo is about honouring his mother’s influence on his cooking (her maiden name, Nuponnen, inspired the restaurant’s name). Nupo is an ode to her love of plants and vegan food and factors heavily into the plant-based and fish-forward menu.

The à la carte menu is executed with the meticulous precision and detail that’s characteristic of world-class establishments. The menu features delicate and flavourful dishes — daikon, treated like a steak, and topped with pickled shiitake and vegan tofu XO sauce, tempura cheese curds with smoked tomato bisque that somehow manages to remain light, despite being deep-fried cheese. The list goes on.

But for a truly mind-blowing dining experience, Nupo’s omakase menu represents a culmination of MacLean’s storied journey as a chef, showcasing a dedication to sustainability and culinary excellence. This style of Japanese fine dining is akin to a chef’s tasting menu but on a more intimate level as diners have the opportunity to interact directly with the chefs, including Nupo’s head omakase chef, Youna Joo. Nupo’s spectacular 17- to 20-course menu features seasonal snacks, nigiri, soup and dessert, highlighting local ingredients — many of which are grown on MacLean’s farm — and sustainable Canadian fish whenever possible. While omakase typically emphasizes Japanese cuisine, Nupo’s version is distinctly Canadian, celebrating our country’s cultural diversity.

As MacLean explains, the omakase “honours tradition, but is not handcuffed by it.”

This philosophy is exemplified in one of the seasonal snacks — an oyster baked over coals in xiao xing butter with ginger scallion salsa, drawing inspiration from MacLean’s experience working in a Chinese restaurant. While the ingredients and flavours are not Japanese, the dish is executed with precision and restraint, showcasing a deep understanding of Japanese technique and culinary principles while bringing MacLean’s vision of Canada’s culinary landscape to the forefront.

Pre-paid reservations (for parties up to six) are required for the Omakase Sushi Experience.

631 Confluence Way S.E., 587-353-1388, nupo.ca, @nupoyyc

 

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This article appears in the March 2025 issue of Avenue Calgary.

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