Who’s Behind It
Chef-Owner Darren MacLean
The Dish to Eat
Bluefin tuna kama
In the heart of Mission, Shokunin pulses with the rhythm of ’90s and 2000s hip-hop, a soundtrack full of energy in an always-exciting restaurant. While its visionary founder, chef Darren MacLean, might be away guest cheffing, Shokunin’s consistency, high standards and commitment to constantly evolve keep it on Avenue’s list for yet another year.
The restaurant thrives on collaboration, hosting international chefs from Michelin-starred and San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Last year, chef Keisuke Miura, fresh from working in Spain’s two-Michelin-starred Amelia, returned to Shokunin as head chef, joining MacLean to usher the restaurant into its 10th year.
Despite its landlocked location, Shokunin relentlessly sources the best sustainable fish — up to 700-pound Bluefin tuna from Prince Edward Island, buttery Ora King salmon from New Zealand and shima-aji from the waters of Japan’s Izu Islands.
Beyond sushi, Shokunin tempts with smoky, tender yakitori, grilled in the style of Tokyo yakitorias, like chicken thighs glazed in an umami-rich tare — a blend of soy sauce, sake and mirin that is refreshed daily with charcoal-grilled chicken bones — that is as old as the restaurant itself. For an elevated experience, Shokunin offers four seat, 12-course yakitori omakase.
Recent barbecue menu additions include char sui St. Louis ribs and miso-marinated lamb racks, both cooked over fire on a custom Argentine Asador grill. You’ll also find bluefin tuna kama, served with lettuce wraps, fresh herbs and Japanese condiments, and wild game tsukene on a skewer.
We’re happy the menu still has the cold-shucked Hokkaido scallop sauced with yuzu kosho nuoc cham, Japanese wagyu striploin aged for 30 days in beeswax for incredible flavour, and the sleeper hit, sesame baby kale salad with a delicate goma-ae dressing, finished with parmesan and a ramen egg.
Shokunin also boasts what could be Calgary’s best curated sake list, including Junmai Daiginjo-Shu, the pinnacle of the sake world. Another treat is the Oku No Matsu, a sparkling sake with aromas of white chocolate and bread pudding to flavours of grapefruit, apple and vanilla.
2016 4 St. S.W., 403-229-3444, shokuninyyc.ca, @shokuninyyc